A handful of bars and restaurants in Singapore have already hopped on the makgeolli train, offering flavoured versions and unique variations of the rice wine. But in terms of craft makgeolli and specialty brews, Odem might be the first to break the mold in our dining scene. For the uninitiated, makgeolli is a traditional Korean liquor derived from fermenting rice, yeast, and water together with a starter culture called nuruk. It’s known for its cloudy, off-white appearance and slightly creamy and fizzy taste. Of late, it’s gained quite some popularity with Koreaboos and foodies alike, if anyone remembers the popular makgeolli and honeycomb combination that was all the rage online recently.
Odem houses one of Singapore’s most extensive collections of handcrafted makgeolli and Korean spirits, all sourced directly from South Korea. Run by the same team behind the beloved Ajumma’s which serves up hearty Korean comfort food, Odem brings a completely different and fresh dining experience to the table. It’s not just about having a meal here, but celebrating Korea’s diverse culinary traditions and its expressions in the modern dining world. And to help with that, the kitchen is headed by the talented Chef Yumi Bae.
The chic joint is fittingly located on the grounds of New Bahru, the trendy new lifestyle enclave that has taken Singapore by storm lately. Word on Odem has been spreading, so we recommend making reservations pronto – for reference, tables were packed on a quiet Wednesday evening.
For first-timers or anyone new to makgeolli, you’ll want to go for the Odem Quintet ($60), a flight of five signature makgeolli that you’ll find on every other table. Start with the medium-bodied brew from Mars Brewery with a slightly sourish profile, before sampling the Cheongmyeongju, a sweeter and less acidic brew with light floral notes and a taste similar to conventional sake. The Hwacheon Il-Chui comes next, and this is the first of the ‘takju’ you’ll encounter in the flight. ‘Takju’ is a thicker, unrefined rice wine with a cloudier appearance, while ‘yakju’ refers to a clearer rice wine without much sediments. The Hwacheon Il-Chui is our favourite of the bunch, pleasantly balanced and with floral hints from the 22 flower varieties that were infused during the fermenting stage.
For something more unique, the Jiran Jigyo – also a ‘takju’ – boasts a creamy coconut finish with a lingering scent of fig leaves. The flight concludes with the Odem Lychee Rose, a signature house brew. Straightforward, floral and fruity with distinct notes of lychee and Korean roses, the pale pink makgeolli is sweet to the taste, so this might not sit well with those who prefer dry liquors. But if you already know your preferences, go ahead and select your bottle of the day from Odem’s list of over 30 makgeolli varieties and Korean spirits.
Pair your drinks with Chef Yumi’s modern Korean dishes, which are designed to complete the diverse makgeolli flavours. A must-order is the crowd-favourite soy-glazed brioche with a savoury gamtae seaweed butter ($20) – it’s faultless and pulls apart oh-so easily, with a perfectly soft and warm middle. For something refreshing, opt for the hwe (seasonal fish sashimi) ($32) which sees fresh aji, hamachi and salmon swimming in a lemon-soy sauce with pickled radish. We only wish there was more than the teeny dollop of mustard on the side to go around. Another side worth mentioning is the banchan platter ($24) which features dubu (tofu) mousse, kimchi, blanched spinach, pickled cucumbers and seaweed chips. This we reckon is great for snacking and pairing with makgeolli, though as a platter it slightly lacks cohesion and errs on the pricier side.
Odem does a rendition of barbecued kalbi ($78) that’s well-executed, featuring US boneless beef ribs in a sweet house marinade paired with a side of watercress salad and gochugaru vinaigrette. Each fatty, tender slice coats the mouth nicely, but with that level of richness, we recommend sharing this among two or three. The abalone boribap ($52) is reminiscent of Jeju abalone porridge and creamy risotto, and while the abalone slices are braised in makgeolli for a creamier mouthfeel, it’s the rice that really stands out here. Mixed in with pearl barley, gamtae butter, zucchini, and gosari (mountain fernbrake), each bite is a combination of interesting textures and flavours that never get boring.
A lean list of three desserts sits on the menu, with the star being the black garlic tart with berries and smoked jujube chantilly cream ($20). While we couldn’t quite get over the use of garlic in dessert, perhaps die-hard garlic fans might think otherwise. Thankfully, the other dessert options seem safer and more appetising – think chapssal (sweet rice) doughnuts with pine nut gelato ($18) or makgeolli gelato paired with malted rice syrup and burnt rice ($14).