We all know chef Gaggan Anand. If not for his world-famous but now-defunct restaurant in Bangkok, then surely, for his culinary residency at Mandala Club. To much fanfare, Anand has now opened his first restaurant in Singapore: Ms. Maria & Mr. Singh, an Indian-Mexican casual joint. While these two cuisines, both known for explosive flavours and an unabashed use of spice, Anand melds the two in a way that’s seemingly effortless.
Anand is lauded for his eccentricism but also culinary skill, and we see that in this modern Indian-Mexican lineup. Nothing here is run-of-the-mill but not all are must-orders. Expect jacked up flavours. A play on textures, like a Mexican mole with deep-fried lotus root. And even unexpected temperatures – one features a cold curry. The menu itself suggests that Anand is “challenging the perception of curry”, but let’s call a spade a spade. It’s a Hokkaido scallop ceviche ($20) with a spiced Peruvian tiger’s milk marinade, with very little resemblance to a traditional curry.
Some small plates fare better than others, with the Papdi Chaat ($18) reigning as the star of the show. It’s a spin-off of Anand's signature yoghurt dish, a chaat masala and yoghurt one-biter that’s intended to explode satisfyingly in your mouth. Heftier mains, like the surf and turf biryani ($28) or even the stir-fried crab curry, make reliable choices.
To best complement the food, order interesting cocktails like the Banana Rhubarb Old Fashioned ($22) or the Pineapple Cilantro Sling ($22). While Ms. Maria & Mr. Singh first started in an unassuming alleyway of Bangkok, it’s been brought over to Singapore by The Proper Concepts Collective – the same folks behind The Feather Blade and Rappu. The restaurant itself has taken over the conservation shophouse space of Japanese-Mexican taco bar Mezcla, but has been refreshed for an entirely new look. It’s all done by LA-based architecture firm Owiu, for an interior that’s equal parts chic but homey.
Make your restaurant reservation for Ms. Maria & Mr. Singh.