As far as cooking competitions go, most of us might only be familiar with MasterChef or Culinary Class Wars. But neither holds a candle to the prestigious Bocuse d’Or, which brings together chefs from across the world in a global gastronomy showdown, often dubbed the ‘Olympics’ of the culinary world. Recently, one Singaporean chef clinched first place in Asia and sixth globally at the Bocuse d’Or Grand Final in Chassieu, France – a feat we haven’t seen since 1989 when Chef William Wai bagged the Bocuse Bronze.
The man in question is 30-year-old Mathew Leong, Executive Chef of three-Michelin-starred Re-Naa in Stavanger, Norway. Chef Mathew is in Singapore for an exclusive five-night pop-up at Dusk @ Mount Faber Peak, where he’ll be showcasing a five-course menu that marries Nordic and Asian flavours. Ahead of the event, we sit down with him for a chat to find out more about his cooking journey, as well as how he’s feeling after the competition.
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Can you share about your early days in the kitchen and how you became a chef?
When I was a kid, I participated in this culinary contest, and one of the juries – Chef Jimmy Chok – spotted me and gave me the opportunity of a lifetime to become a chef. From there on, I fell in love with the kitchen, gastronomy, cooking tasty and nice food, and making guests happy.
In my early days, I was helping my mum peel vegetables and cook. She was the first one who taught me how to pan-fry and steam fish. When you’re a child, you always want to do everything. You watch a policeman show, and you want to be a policeman the next day. I didn’t know that I wanted to become a chef until I won a contest. After winning a contest, I felt, “Hey, maybe I’m good at this.” And that’s how I continued.
You are currently the Executive Chef of three-Michelin-starred Re-Naa. What brought you from Singapore all the way to the remote seaside town of Stavanger in Norway?
Back then, I always dreamed of working in a Michelin Guide restaurant. And when I was younger – 16, 17 years old – Singapore was not on the Michelin Guide yet. I always wanted to work abroad in a good establishment to learn something different. So I sent multiple CVs around the world and Re-Naa gave me the opportunity to come to Norway. I said yes, packed my bag, applied for a visa, and just left.
I remember so clearly when I was on the plane to Stavanger, the only goal was to succeed. Whatever it took, whatever was needed to be a success. If not, there was no point in travelling thousands of miles away from my family. So that was the only thing I knew: work hard, stay focused, and succeed.
And succeed you did. A big congratulations on winning first in Asia and sixth overall at the recent Bocuse d’Or Grand Final! For those who might not be familiar with it, could you share what the Bocuse d’Or represents in the culinary world and its significance?
Thank you. The Bocuse d’Or started more than thirty years ago with the legendary chef Paul Bocuse. He wanted to bring all the best chefs in the world together to show their national identity, and give an opportunity for new countries to shine on a global stage.
And the Bocuse d’Or takes a lot of time and effort in terms of training, as well as the support of the country. Because you’re one person representing the whole country, and it’s the world’s toughest chef competition. To head to the Grand Final, you need to be the best chef in your country and the continent. Only then will you win a ticket to be among the 24 best chefs in the whole world.
You’re only 30 this year. What challenges did you face as a young chef?
At the start, I was a slow learner. Trying to pick things up and become a professional chef – it’s a long process, and it’s challenging. You learn everything from scratch. And even now, we’re always learning. So I don’t call them challenges – you actually learn along the way. Of course, when you first hold a knife and cut the most expensive meat in the world, you might make some mistakes. For me, it’s about not making the same mistake the next day. Even as an Asian going overseas to work in a European country, there were no problems.
If you weren’t a chef, what would you be doing?
My dream was to become a pilot. I know it’s silly. But unfortunately – or fortunately – I’m in the kitchen now. This is what I love to do. And I will do it again and again, no matter what it takes.
I remember so clearly when I was on the plane to Stavanger, the only goal was to succeed. Whatever it took, whatever was needed to be a success.
What local food do you miss the most when you’re away?
My mum’s cooking, that’s what I miss. Cantonese food in particular. I love it. Always.
You’ll be holding a five-day pop-up at Dusk @ Mount Faber Peak this week. Why the decision, and could you give us a sneak peek of what to expect at the dinner?
I’m really excited about being the first guest chef to cook at Dusk @ Mount Faber Peak, which has a beautiful view overlooking the cable cars. It’s an iconic place in Singapore and there wasn’t any reason I would say no. Expect delicious food. Nothing other than delicious, exceptional food.
Finally, what’s next for you after your big win?
When the Bocuse d’Or ended, I felt very sad actually. After all the hard work, spending time together with the team – who’s now like family – for two years, and pushing through all the difficulties, everything ended in five and a half hours. And now you need to reset your life again. For the time being, I would like to focus on Re-Naa and spend more time with my wife and my little dog Frosty. Then we’ll move on further from there.
Chef Mathew’s pop-up at Dusk @ Mount Faber Peak, A Nordic Expedition, will be taking place from February 19 to 23, 2025. Reservations for February 19 and 20 are still available here.
