In true Robuchon fashion, chef Joël Robuchon opened not one, but two eateries side by side (his other is fine dining space Joël Robuchon Restaurant).
L’Atelier’s set-up is similar to that of his branches in Paris, Tokyo, New York, London and Hong Kong, decked out in the chain’s signature sleek-and-sexy red-and-black theme. The exceptions to the decorations here are the display of vegetables – some julienned and mandolined, some left whole – and arranged in clear glass vases. These eye-catching decorations are painstakingly prepared for two hours every morning.
The best seats in this ‘workshop’ are at the bar. This warm and fiery 28-seat counter mimics the shape of the circular room and hugs the open-plan kitchen. It is from these high chairs that you’ll be able to watch the grill firing; the suckling pig roasting on a spit; the pillowy mashed potatoes being hand-whipped (for at least 45 minutes by one person, we hear); and the dishes getting plated.
The Discovery Menu ($318) during our visit is a 11-course tapas-style menu with dishes like squid with cauliflower risotto and chorizo sausage. If our portions are anything to go by, the food here isn’t quite tapas-sized, although it isn’t a full serving, either.
Particularly impressive were the well-rounded amuse bouche of savoury foie gras custard with a sweet berry-like red-port wine reduction and Parmesan foam; tender, moist Scottish lobster with curry and coriander; and the stuffed caramelised quail that oozes when cut into served with the restaurant's legendary mashed potatoes.
Tasting the refreshing champagne rose punch with mara des bois strawberry lightness and soursop sorbet dessert, it's apparent that the dishes have been tweaked to adhere to the availability of local ingredients and palate. Chef Philippe Braun, one of Robuchon’s right-hand men, reveals L’Atelier Singapore’s guiding principle: ‘Less salt, more spice – because we heard Singaporeans don’t like their salt too much.’ The same holds for the sugar: La Sphere, a white chocolate sphere within which sits raspberry sorbet and fresh raspberries.