For those who’ve waddled deep enough in Singapore’s culinary scene, the name Andrew Walsh might ring a bell. He’s the chef behind concepts like one-Michelin-starred Cure, the Irish gastropub Tilly’s, 87 Club Street and more. Kee’s at 21 Carpenter which opened its doors earlier this year is the latest addition to the list of establishments under Walsh’s belt, and if you haven’t had a chance to dine at the illustrious Cure, this is a more wallet-friendly option. The new modern European diner is the star restaurant of the luxury heritage hotel 21 Carpenter, a former remittance house for migrants back in the 1930s.
A word on its interiors – the 71-seater takes inspiration from Art Deco banking halls of the 30s, using original building materials like timber but mixing it up with trendy leather lounges and marble finishing. The open kitchen is perched on an elevated platform while the central bar is the heart of the restaurant. But what really stands out are the large scale paintings commissioned from artist Khairulddin Wahab that add colour and life to Kee’s while paying homage to early immigrants who once walked through the building.
You’ll also see remnants of the building’s storied past in Kee’s menu – cocktails are infused with spices and fruits previously sold by peddlers along Carpenter Street, and the food menu sees plenty of Pan-Asian and local influences to spice up what would otherwise be rather standard European fare. Sip on some tipples to start. Standouts include Spice & Sips ($18) which is a feisty blend of Los Arcos agave, Aperol, passionfruit, and chilli; as well as the Calamansi Melange ($22) featuring Canerock spiced rum, calamansi and candied winter melon.
Fresh and clean flavours plus vibrant hues of pink and green take centre stage in the appetiser section. And even if you’re not one to let the camera eat first, it’s hard not to snap a picture when the plates are this pretty. Try the Japanese baby gem salad (from $14), roasted beetroot and burrata ($20), or Norwegian shrimp cocktail with herb avocado and prawn crackers ($18). The subtle, balanced flavours here are a much needed prelude before the mains roll in.
Before you scoff at the idea of ordering laksa at a restaurant, let us tell you why Kee’s version of the heritage dish is worth the calories. The soup comes closer to a thick, viscous gravy, packed with umami thanks to a potent tiger prawn head and seafood stock. Each mouthful of bouncy rice noodles comes evenly coated in gravy and topped with giant, perfectly cooked North Atlantic scallops. If you don’t fancy wolfing down a full-sized portion of the bowl ($30), a tasting portion is also available ($16). Another highlight is the Mediterranean sea bream, doused with fragrant green curry and paired with coconut rice ($40). Craving steak? Kee’s does an excellent pepper-crusted steak frites ($40) with pickled red onions, parmesan cream and chimichurri – there’s enough texture, acidity, and flavour to make every bite taste like the first.
We also love that the dessert menu isn’t an afterthought. Make sure you place an order for the grilled brie set ($16) with sourdough, honey thyme pepper, and rum and raisin chutney. It’s admittedly a little odd to have bread as the end of your meal, so we’d probably pull a stunt and order this at the start. And if you only have space to stomach one dessert, go for the signature Kee’s tiramisu ($16).