The Naked Chef once remarked: ‘All I ever wanted to do is make food accessible to everyone; to show that you can make mistakes – I do all the time – but it doesn’t matter.’ He’s right. And while Jamie’s Italian has been one of the most anticipated restaurant openings of 2013, whatever imperfections his first foray into Singapore may have (and yes, there are some), it makes up for by sticking to that core philosophy.
You’ll have to look past the overburdened staff tending to the expansive 210-seat restaurant (including an alfresco area that seats 40, complete with an outdoor herb garden) – for the most part, they’re eager-to-please and knowledgeable enough, but the place has unsurprisingly been rammed. Expect to find a queue during peak lunch and dinner times (though even during the opening weeks, it was pretty fast moving) and a middling inconsistency to the quality of the food they’re churning out. But this is, after all, Jamie Oliver. And we all love him.
At the end of the day, it’s partaking in the quintessential Oliver experience that matters most – from the charmingly rustic décor to the cute little stories behind the food (the cutting boards serving their signature planks, for instance, are sourced from a hobo called Mike the Woodman) and the sustainably-sourced products (notably, they’ve also collaborated with Archipelago Brewery to create an exclusive beer for the outlet, the Archipelago Evviva L’Italia, $11.50/300ml).
While the said antipasti planks – there’s meat ($15.50/person), cured and crispy fish ($17) or veggie ($13.50) options, each with a different selection of cheeses and pickles – are solid options for pre-meal nibbling, the more popular choices are undoubtedly the range of pasta dishes, available in two sizes (the large is ideal for sharing).
You can’t really go wrong with any option – try the fennel-seasoned prawn linguine (pictured above; $17 small/$25 large) or the tangy Jool’s Favourite Sicilian tuna fusilli ($14/$21, named in honour of Oliver’s wife). They’re expertly prepared and very reasonably priced. You might save a few bucks by going to Pastamania nearby, but not much – and really, why would you want to?
For gourmands, the World’s Best Olives on Ice ($7.50) – superbly flavoured specimens sourced from Puglia – will certainly please (though you can debate whether or not they live up to the lofty moniker), as will the crispy squid ($11.50), featuring firm and chewy pieces coated in crunchy batter and served alongside garlic mayo.
Less impressive are the bland risotto balls (pictured above; $11.50), stuffed with a dry combination of smoked mozz and mushrooms, and the one-dimensional Brixham Bay crab risotto ($19/$28.50), which the kitchen hasn’t quite mastered. After receiving one order that was over-zealously reduced, our server graciously replaced it with another order that was just about right.
If you’re looking for something more filling, the Angus prime rib ($59.50), served with wild mushrooms and a decadent truffle butter, or the smoky quick-seared veal steak caramelised with a layer of prosciutto ($32.50), are both immensely flavourful, though there’s a tendency to overcook the meat a bit. For something lighter, go for the moist and flaky pink snapper acqua pazza ($32). And finally, desserts. Plenty of family-pleasing treats here, including the moist, rich and fudgey Ji Warm Brownie ($11.50, served with vanilla ice cream), which reveals additional hints of raspberry and amaretto. There’s also a wonderfully wobbly panna cotta ($9), which is silky-smooth and works beautifully with the refreshingly tangy mixed berry fruit compote served with it.
If it’s haute celebrity chef cuisine or truly wicked Italian fare you want, you’d best look elsewhere. But with a family-friendly atmosphere and cookbook-inspired dishes, Jamie’s Italian delivers. All that’s left is for the Naked Chef himself to pay us a visit and put a stamp on the place.