Harry's Eurasian Pies
Photograph: Dawson Tan
Photograph: Dawson Tan

Hawker spotlight: Harry's Eurasian Pies

Serving up comforting Devil's Curry pies to the masses of Amoy Street Food Center

Dawson Tan
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A crisp off-white signboard stands out against the worn but legendary signs of the famed Han Kee Fish Soup in the refreshed Amoy Street Food Market – it belongs Harry’s Eurasian Pies. Opened back in June by husband-and-wife duo Harry and Jaq, the corner stall serves up comforting fuss-free pies that fill the tummy without breaking the bank. 

Serving a different kind of mass

In the kitchen is Harry, who is Eurasian himself, and his wife Jaq, who is Nyonya, at the till. The couple has been married for 28 long years – their four kids help out whenever they can. But being hawkers wasn’t always part of the plan. It all began when the former publication man reimagined the traditional devil’s curry with buttery flaky pastry. And just like that, the pie idea came about.

It was an instant hit amongst friends and family whenever he hosted meals at home. But the decision to venture out to be a hawkerpreneur didn’t come to fruition overnight. It was over a decade of serving it during Sunday mass in the Queen of Peace Church canteen where Harry received overwhelming responses. Finally, he took a leap of faith – in light of being in a sunset industry – and decided to open Harry’s Eurasian Pies.

Devil's in the details

The headlining dish is none other than the Devil’s Curry Pie ($8). “Curry Devil is a quintessential Eurasian dish found on the table during Christmas. Back in the day where there was no refrigeration, the leftovers are tossed altogether and doused with loads of spicy tangy spices to mask up any off flavours,” says Harry. While times have definitely changed, so has his recipe. Using only fresh ingredients, he says he won’t require the dish to hide behind extreme spice anymore.

Harry's Eurasian Pies
Photograph: Dawson Tan

Every puff pastry is freshly baked upon order – a la minute, if you may – so that by the time you tuck in, the flaky buttery crust remains warm and crisp. Once you cut into it, it reveals an earthy aroma with a medley of tender chicken meat, rough-cut bacon, potato chunks and chicken sausages. There’s also cabbage and cucumbers slow-cooked to a point where they almost disintegrate into a sweet tangy mush. Best mopped up with the crust, the moreish spice – predominantly onions, ginger and mustard seed –  is balanced with a delightful peppery finish that screams comfort food.

Not big on spice? Harry says to go with the hearty Shepherd's Pie ($7) which is equally comforting with its sweet and herbaceous flavours. There’s also a classic Eurasian new year’s dish of Chicken Pot Pie ($8) with a mix of white and dark meat.

A vote of confidence

In the midst of our chat, a Eurasian gentleman who's having the Devil's Curry Pie for breakfast – for the first time – hollers at Harry signalling with a thumbs up. "Bro, it's really delicious. Get me two more to take away please!". At that moment, all I could think of was that if it's got the co-sign of another fellow Eurasian, the pies definitely made the cut.

While it is still in its infancy, the earnest couple is just happy to welcome everyone and anyone who is willing to give these Eurasian pies a try.

Three questions with owners Harry and Jaq

If its not pies you’re having, what do you like to eat?

"Prawn noodles and char kway teow," Jaq exclaimed endearingly on Harry's behalf. "One more, chicken rice. It's simply good," Harry added on with a wide smile to his face.

How does a day in your life look like?

I usually start prep work at home at 5am. That's where the cutting of vegetables takes place. Around 7am, I will swoop down to the stall and start preparing the meats. From making the mashed potatoes from scratch to hand mincing chicken meat for the shepherd's pie, I usually am done around 10.30am and that's when diners start to appear. For now, we close around 2pm or until we're sold out but we're looking to extend the hours just a little in the near future.

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What are you future plans for Harry's Eurasian Pies?

Eurasian cuisine is quite the rarity but it does have its charm! I'm quite positive about preserving Eurasian and Nyonya cultures through food. In the near future, I hope to introduce more authentic flavours such as the babi ponteh and babi assam to the masses – my tribute to Jaq's Nyonya heritage. If successful, I envision more outlets and even a central kitchen where I can set up shop in high-traffic areas such as MRT stations where people can just "grab and go".

Go there now

  • Hawker
  • Raffles Place

Harry's comforting Eurasian Pies hopes to help preserve Eurasian and Nyonya cultures through food. Expect to savour the Devil’s Curry Pie ($8). A dish that is a quintessential Eurasian dish found on the table during Christmas. Here, it is baked fresh upon order to give you that warm and crisp crust.

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