When Fredric Goh was in school, he prepared a family recipe for his Food and Nutrition examination: babi assam. He was surprised that even his examiners were unfamiliar with this Nonya dish. It sparked something in him – he wanted to raise awareness of Peranakan culture through food.
Today, the 28-year-old is the head chef at Godmama. But he cooks more than traditional fare of Nonya chap chye ($13.90) and ayam buah keluak ($18.90). During the weekend, the menu turns modern, with familiar brunch items getting a Peranakan makeover.
“It’s our way of making Peranakan cuisine more accessible to a wider range of people, including the younger crowd,” shares Fredric. For instance, the usual tomato base is swapped for a spicy, tangy sauce in the Buah Keluak Bolognese Pasta ($19.90) while pork is stewed in a bean paste instead of barbecue sauce in the Pulled Pork Pongteh Sunny ($15.90).
Peranakan influences can be found in the cocktails as well, with spirits stirred with gula Melaka or shaken with housemade pineapple jam. These touches might seem blasphemous to some, but Fredric believes that this helps preserve the cuisine in its own way. He says: “I think that with each generation, we add a little of ourselves and build upon what generations of the past have accomplished.”
TRY THIS Those with a sweet tooth should order the banana pengat buttermilk pancakes ($17.90), where fluffy stacks come served with coconut milk and banana compote.