Over at Gemmil Lane, chef Andrew Walsh (of Butchers Boy and Bao Boy fame) opens his fifth, and latest dining concept: Catfish, a seafood-focused restaurant and grill bar.
And much like the name suggests, nothing is quite as it seems here. For one, the space changes dramatically in vibes from day to night. The high ceiling lets in plenty of natural light when the sun is up, while lush potted plants and olive finishings bring out a soothing, tropical charm. At sundown, the lights are dimmed, and the 43-seater eatery turns into a cosy, romantic hideout.
The food served is also full of surprises – and textures. Crispy hasselback potatoes come crowned with lime-marinated bluefin tuna ($16); catfish taco is almost gelatinous, sweetened with umeboshi mayonnaise ($16); and noodles come made from squid ($25), served in an umami-rich brown chicken broth. More uncanny pairings feature heavily on the modern menu, too. Humble toast ($58) comes smeared with scallop mousse, then topped with bountiful catch from the sea: prawn, uni, and caviar. But it all comes together most evidently in the restaurant’s star dish, a whole Sichuan BBQ fish ($42). Sea bass comes grilled with tongue-numbing spices, then drenched in a lobster-based sauce perfumed with XO and laksa herbs.
And it’s this unexpected playfulness, according to head chef Erik Gustafsson, that is exactly what Catfish hopes to capture. Even the drink menu is peppered with native ingredients pulled from various cultures. Tales of Time ($24) is a floral number made with brandy, sakura, and rose water; while gin-based Lantern Fest ($24) comes served with Sichuan syrup and bitters.
Come Sundays, Catfish will also put an oceanic spin on the typical weekend roast. Its Sunday Fish Feasts will spotlight a salmon wellington ($48), served alongside sides of butter-tossed potatoes, roasted cauliflower, romaine lettuce salad, and more. And for those hankering something less adventurous, swing by during lunch for some fish and chips ($36). Of course, it’ll come with Catfish’s special touch; the dish is jazzed up – with a firmer barramundi as the choice of protein, presented alongside crushed edamame salad and jalapeño tartar sauce.