To me, Peranakan cuisine is the epitome of comfort food. But what happens when cuisine commonly associated with home kitchens is elevated to the point where even Michelin inspectors start taking note? Does it lose its rustic charm? For Candlenut, I say no. And while chef-owner Malcolm Lee does innovate with some dishes, it’s in the cooking of the classics where he shines.
The restaurant’s COMO Dempsey space departs from the stark decor of its previous digs in Dorsett Residences. Large straw lanterns hang from the ceiling, weaved baskets deck the floors and vintage pieces like an ice kachang machine finish the look. It’s befitting of a Michelin-starred spot while remaining warm and inviting.
Dining here is a communal affair. Opt for Lee’s signature ‘ahmakase’ menu ($108/ lunch, $138/dinner) or order from the à la carte menu. I start with kueh pie tee stuffed with hamachi tartare, pickled shallot and laksa leaf pesto. Pop the whole piece in your mouth and you’ll find that there’s nothing to write home about. For curry, order both the Aunt Caroline's babi buah keluah ($42) of slow-cooked Iberico pork jowl and wagyu beef rib rendang ($48). These are dishes that definitely go better with rice.
The chap chye ($26) is the standout because of its simplicity. The vegetables are stewed ’til they achieve the perfect texture – a cross between chewy and melt-in-the-mouth. Other highlights include the wok-tossed Ang Kar sea prawns with petai beans ($40) and curry of Kühlbarra barramundi ($34). Wash it down with a Tiger ($10) to show your Singapore pride. After all, Lee’s cooking is definitely a rallying point that we can be proud of.
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