Master pizzaiolo Eddie Murakami who trained at Pizza Strada and Pizza Studio Tamaki in Tokyo – ranked 82 and 88 respectively on the Top Pizzas in the World list in 2023 – is now in Singapore with his very own pizza concept. The new 28-seater hole-in-the-wall at Arab Street is already seeing reservations months ahead despite having only opened recently.
Beyond the Dough specialises in Tokyo-Neapolitan style slices, with a range of classic and innovative flavours. While the pizzas may look and sound unassuming, the devil is in the details – from the imported Japanese flour used, to the 30-hour proofing time, the use of Okinawan salt and olive oil from Italy, and even water filtered using a Japanese water filter.
The restaurant’s minimalistic and open-concept design draws your eyes to the main pizza-making station with a large wood-fired oven as the centrepiece. Here, you can catch Murakami deep in his element as he personally prepares each pizza by hand before firing it up in the 500 degrees oven for just 50 to 60 seconds. His stern, hyper-focused demeanour behind the counter goes to show the level of precision and dedication involved in crafting the perfect pizzas.
The margherita ($30) has an intense smokiness from the wood firing and a crispy yet chewy crust, elevating the three basic ingredients of tomato sauce, basil and cheese. But our favourites are the Singapore Rampage ($39) and the 5 Formaggi ($39).
The Rampage – a Singapore exclusive flavour – boasts a spicy sauce base made from over 100 prawns that are cooked for 20 hours and topped with chunks of minced prawn. While some might be sceptical of local iterations, this one hits the spot with the right notes of savoury, a good bite from the chunky prawns, and a satisfying spicy kick. Cheese lovers should definitely not skip the 5 Formaggi – an indulgent pizza topped with five rich cheeses including mascarpone, blue cheese and parmigiana. It’s best enjoyed by drizzling over the Italian honey that comes with it.
While the pizzas are kept straightforward and simple, the joint’s more unique offerings are seen in their sides and appetisers. The assortment of three appetisers ($18) is tweaked based on the seasonality of the produce, featuring anything from mushrooms, to celery, octopus or eggplants. As for hot starters, opt for the hearty homemade lasagna ($12), which comes as a small serving in a miniature ceramic pot. Interestingly, chilled green tea is served instead of water, which helps to wash down the heavier portions of the meal and keep your stomach ready for more.
While prices are on the steeper end for a pizza joint, Murakami delivers on the flavours, and it’s worth a try since Tokyo-Neapolitan style pizzas are hard to come by in Singapore. As all pizzas are handmade by the chef, expect a waiting time of 15 to 20 minutes per pizza. The good news is that the restaurant closes at 11pm and the last order is at 9.45pm, which offers some buffer time so you won’t have to rush through your meal.