Squirrelled away in the heart of an HDB warren is this in-the-know zhi-char joint, where generations come together to feast on old-fashioned fare like smoky coffee ribs, thickly sauced tofu braised with tiny pinheaded mushrooms, butterpork ribs and excellent salted fish fried rice that’s showered with fried anchovies. The dishes – which come in super-sized portions, even the small orders – come out fast and furious, while the matronly and scarily efficient Cantonese- speaking staff could teach everyone in town a thing or two about service.
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