Cumi Bali

Like so many good eateries in this town, the no-frills interiors (fake flowers and hanging plants) provide the setting for fab (and cheap) Indonesian fare. The usual suspects of kangkong sambal, ruby-red chilli eggplant and sayur lodeh are reliable, but be adventurous. An entire log of squid is perfectly grilled in a sweet, black sauce; and it’s hard not to inhale the chicken satay, the thick cuts of meat marinated in an unctuous sauce made of Indonesian palm seeds. In the evenings, sit on the five-foot way and watch the prostitutes ply their trade while chomping on the excellent chendol drizzled with thick gula jawa.