Gemmill Lane is littered with time-tested dining establishments that could be described as a touch too ritzy for most. But fresh face on the lane, The Kongsee, seeks to stand out in a much different way. How so? Well, it is not quite your typical Japanese izakaya, but more so a candidly-coined Singapore izakaya that dreams big.
Touting itself to be the spot that brings people together to relive and celebrate Singapore’s diverse cultural heritage, the nostalgic plates are curated by none other than the Father of Modern Singaporean cuisine, Chef-Partner Willin Low. Also known for his penchant for casual Japanese concepts, this venture comes as no surprise.
“With its dual meaning inspired by both the Hokkien word for “company” and the Malay word for “sharing”, it is our hope that The Kongsee will be a welcoming space that connects people with the delicious melting pot of different cultures and communities in modern Singapore through our food, drinks and convivial hospitality,” shares Chef-Partner Willin Low.
Step into its grungy interiors where a mix of traditional and contemporary elements flood the senses with nostalgia. Expect thematic trinkets such as Peranakan tiled tables, HDB gate railings, graffiti-clad walls with inspiring stories to tell, and our favourite, flocks of red paper planes bejewelling the ceilings symbolising the team’s ambition of taking the colloquial concept worldwide. The overall mood is vibrant and upbeat but as the lights dim, the space teases a much more sultry “helter-skelter” vibe.
With conviviality comes a spread of playful and unpretentious sharing plates. An absolute must-try is the Iberico Satay ($30), a Hainanese-Indonesian fusion street food. Succulent smoke-kissed pork is slathered with an intensely rich Javanese peanut sauce and a refreshing Sarawak pineapple salsa with a surprising kick of spice to finish. Judging by how we collectively agreed to have seconds, you just can’t sleep on this.
For a refreshing burst of the sea, the barramundi ceviche ($19) most definitely delivers. Locally sourced barramundi, cherry tomatoes, fresh herbs and a dollop of pomelo ice cream are given a good toss before a royal scoop up with crispy papadams. There’s also a Krapow Prata Pizza ($15), a dish inspired by the trio of Thai, Indian and Italian gastronomic cultures, featuring Thai basil minced chicken served on an Indian roti and baked with cheese.
A lauded signature is the mini Roxy crab laksa ($20) which draws heavy influence from the renowned Singapore Laksa which was founded back in 1952. But be warned if you’re searching for punchy flavours as this rendition features a lighter, more delicate broth peppered with slivers of wild-caught crab. Our only gripe was a stubborn taupok that did not allow itself to soak up any gravy even after a few soaks.
Libations are aplenty at The Kongsee as bold reimaginations of classic cocktails are injected with a local flair and themed behind different inimitable districts and neighbourhoods – Chinatown, Little India, Lucky Plaza, Bugis and more.
The Kopi O Su Dai Negroni ($21) under Chinatown has got in-house kopi bean (sourced from a coffeeshop in Telok Ayer) infused Negroni served with a playful tangy citrus lollipop. Its pleasant roast profile of the Nanyang beans is bound to please coffee lovers. Other worthy mentions include a dry and stiff Goondu Martini ($21) under Little India and the cheeky Mango Mai Kub Ban ($20) under Golden Mile.
That is not all. Pledging its 15 taps to independent local craft beer breweries, hopheads can expect a range of the freshest brews including a malty-sweet Amber Blivet from Able Brewing, a thirst-quenching tropical Crush Kumquat Ginger by Off Day Beer Company, and the Old Flame, a tangy session sour ale by Niang Brewery. On the topic of keeping things fresh, it helps to know that it is a rotating tap list so expect a different line-up every time you visit.
Book here.
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