Havelock 2 falls in the category of unassuming malls that quietly boast a surprising number of food gems, and Pilot Kitchen is definitely one of them. This cosy bistro is tucked away in a corner unit at the basement, and comes alive after its neighbouring eateries have shut for the day.
Pilot Kitchen started as a private dining project in 2022, kickstarted by 27-year-old Bryan Wai. As word spread about the lip-smacking short ribs, fluffy milk buns, and savoury butter cakes that he was dishing out, he bit the bullet, landing a physical restaurant space in Chinatown eight months later. Initial guidance came from the co-founder of Scaled by Ah Hua Kelong, Wong Jing Kai, a trusted mentor and partner. Now, Bryan is joined by three friends – Sebastian, Sean, and Wei Jun – all young blokes in their 20s who work side by side in the open kitchen.
We start off with homemade milk buns ($8) that tear apart gorgeously to a warm, cloud-like centre. They come with a house special butter, and the one we’re served that day is roasted corn and garlic confit – new and inventive with toasty, umami flavours. The duck menchikatsu ($17) is another crowd favourite, which sees deep-fried shredded duck meat patties with spring onion aioli. It’s a tad heavy for a starter, with robust flavours from the marinated duck, panko, and the aioli underneath. We say skip it for other more remarkable dishes on the menu.
And by that, we mean the hamachi collar ($32), which is a generous blow-torched hunk that feeds two to three. The fish is exceptionally fresh, with flaky bits that slide off the bone. Use the tender chunks for sopping up more of the sauce – an addictive bonito butter emulsion topped with annatto seed oil for a subtle depth of flavour.
Beyond the menu, turn your eyes to the blackboard where the daily specials are scribbled. We are treated to the squid with Xinjiang spices ($24), easily our favourite dish of the day. Inspired by Bryan’s travels to China, it channels the punchy, aromatic, spice-forward flavours reminiscent of chuan chuan (grilled skewers). Stir-fried squid is topped with cashew chilli crisps, tying in beautifully with a burnt eggplant purée, and finally, a handful of fresh, crunchy watercress for a refreshing finish.
For the final act, we try the highly raved beef short ribs ($68), one of Pilot’s earliest creations. What’s special is that it comes with a dollop of tzatziki (a creamy Greek dip), house-blended gunpowder spice, and grilled padron peppers on the side. While some like the pairing of beef with a smidge of tzatziki, the dairy-laden, yoghurty dip doesn’t quite gel with the unctuous beef slices for us – instead, a simple dab of gunpowder spice does the trick.
It’d be amiss to leave Pilot without ordering its signature butter cake ($12), a savoury flavour bomb paired with camembert ice cream and fried shallots. And if you’re not entirely on board with the idea of salt flakes crowning your cake, then check out the specials board for the dessert of the day instead.
As our meal winds down, Bryan lets us in on what’s next for Pilot Kitchen. The team is toying with the idea of a weekday lunch service – think grab-and-go bagels and sandwiches tailored for the working crowd. On top of that, the restaurant’s lease is up for renewal this November, and they’re currently weighing their options, which means a potential move is on the table. If you’re thinking of visiting, we recommend swinging by before the year’s out, just in case.
Book a table here.
Pilot Kitchen is open from Wednesday to Sunday at Havelock 2, 2 Havelock Road, B1-04, Singapore 059763.
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