Serving up a playful intersection of kappo and kaiseki is a Japanese omakase restaurant, Jinhonten. Semi-hidden behind the facade of another casual Japanese concept that is soon to arrive, it makes the latest member of the Les Amis Group’s eclectic portfolio of dining concepts. Meals here are touted to be far less traditional from their typically fine and stoic omakase counterparts – though the dated interiors say otherwise.
In hopes to appease the next generation of diners whose online followers eat before they do, Head Chef Issey Araki sets out to bring his charisma to the table. Cheekily donning crab shell masks, unveiling sizeable fresh seafood as large as his torso, and proudly exhibiting some showmanship with a steaming hot abalone, are just some of the theatrics Araki has up his sleeves to engage diners on a regular night.
Except our visit wasn’t all that regular
Instead, the supposedly high octane atmosphere felt tranquillized. Araki’s highly-lauded showmanship and flair were absent from start to end. You’d think it would be even more fitting to showcase those chops when a concept revolves itself around the headlining figure’s charisma. Even at the final kegani donabe course, I still harboured a sliver of hope for a special appearance from the quirky crab shell mask. But alas, it was a no-show.
While the bland evening ensued, the charisma and flair were regretfully missed. But as we turn our focus on the special menu that was served, inklings of Araki’s flair in execution were peppered along each course of dishes. Here, an ever-changing menu – in line with seasonality – is offered as prix-fixe lunch ($180) and dinner ($450) formats honouring the freshest premium produce from markets in Toyosu, Hokkaido, Kyushu and even Fukuoka – prepared in different cooking methods such as grilling, frying, steaming to serving it raw.
The show must go on
Cue in the appetiser to kickstart the special menu for the evening. Hokkaido Murasaki sea urchin (uni) and pen shell (tairagai) swim in a custardy egg-yolk sauce that lightly coaxes the freshness of the sweet seafood. A generous dollop of Kristal caviar also added an inviting touch of brine.
Abalone dashi made with kombu and sake cleanses the palate before steamed Yamaguchi black abalone (kuro awabi) is served. Sous Chef Kumagai displays his deft knife skills as he carves an edge that is perfect to pick up with chopsticks. Paired with abalone liver sauce fortified with licks of uni, we thought the moreish condiment did wonders to the slightly rubbery abalone.
Next up, is a handroll that showcases a selection of seasonal seafood grilled over binchotan charcoal. For us, a glistening slab of blackthroat sea perch (nodoguro, pictured above) is carefully laid atop a blend of sushi rice and wrapped in a toasted nori blanket. A pleasant sweet yet acidic pop of pickled winter melon spiked with sake and mirin (naruzuke) stood out. The expressions of creamy oily flesh, smoky blistered skin, and crunchy pickles were truly harmonious.
For the sashimi course, a pacific sea perch (menuke) makes a rare appearance in the form of thickly sliced sashimi. Paired with salted kombu, it helps accentuate the clean fatty flavours and firm textures of the deep-sea fish.
Typically red-meat focused, the shabu shabu is reimagined with channel rockfish (kinki, pictured above) from Hokkaido. Filleted and flash poached, the luscious fish is served with a gently tart ponzu fishbone broth and pumpkin somen. We appreciate that there’s a lightness to the dish but yet at the same time, some heft from the deep umami notes.
Hailing from Yamaguchi prefecture, the scaleless silver pomfret (managatsuo) is plastered with a thin layer of panko and deep-fried till golden brown. The freshly sweet yet lean meat is then complemented with a tangy fruit tomato sauce and specks of Kristal caviar.
Right before the heavy hitters arrived, a Japanese eggplant (nasu, pictured above) – beautifully scored to resemble bamboo leaves – and slippery watershield (junsai) with an oddly gelatinous yet crunchy exterior refreshes our palates. A trio of well-marbled Hida beef cubes then jiggles its way right in front of our eyes. Grilled over binchotan, the buttery cut simply paired well with Hiroshima rice salt and charred asparagus.
Araki’s pièce de résistance showcases the Hokkaido hairy crabs (kegani) in his well-acclaimed donabe dish to conclude. In this treasure trove of ingredients are generous slivers of milky kegani flesh and plump grains of umami-ladened rice bound by a homemade creamy kegani miso mixed in for added depth. The bright and spicy picked mustard greens on the side helps to add a little kick to the otherwise cleanly executed dish.
While Araki doesn’t shy away from innovation – it is said that he regularly scours popular social media platforms such as Youtube and Instagram for creative ideas and inspiration – the classic dessert of sweet Shizuoka muskmelon, albeit tasty, fails to inspire.
Closing thoughts
Never mind the disorientingly slow to upbeat hōgaku playlists in the background but it is the unwelcomed disruptions that make one wonder if this was secretly a casual izakaya joint as the exclusivity waned away with each passing minute. Think diners from other rooms passing through the private dining theatre to access the washroom. Piercing commotions from the rowdy inebriated over the thin walls that interrupt your peace. The list goes on but you get the gist.
With the dime-a-dozen nature of omakase restaurants in Singapore, diners are increasingly discerning about such experiences. That said, the steeply-priced experience does need a little more substance than just hype to attract, please and retain its clientele.
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