Since it first opened in Tras Street back in 2021, Revolver has caused a few ripples with its signature flame-kissed plates that had many returning for more. Word on the street is that if you’re looking for authentic Indian flavours and international culinary influence, this modern grill house is where you’ll need to be if you haven’t already.
Our visit on a weekday afternoon was greeted with a roaring lunch crowd that almost led us to believe we were there on a certain Sunday brunch. Of course, we sat right smack in front of the dynamic open kitchen where the epic grills and tandoor are – a literal warm welcome. That’s also where Chef Saurabh’s stage is set with a bewitching backdrop of embers and flames as he plays with fire.
The fifth edition of the eight-course Experience menu ($199++) starts with a whole stuffed courgette that's filled with tempered zucchini and cheddar. Fiercely grilled over the custom wood-fire grill, the stems are brushed with a tangy tomato pickle chutney before it gets plated.
We’re no stranger to the crowd favourite fresh paneer that is now synonymous with the Revolver namesake. Freshly flown in from Delhi on a weekly basis, the crown jewel ingredient is simple but oh-so-satisfying. This edition sees the pillowy morsel marinated with cashews and onions before it is cooked in the tandoor and served up with traditional spicy caramelised onions.
At this juncture, emerging from the tandoor were a couple of skewers. Using his bare hands, the chef grabs a piece of that smoking hot protein and inspects it as though the protein came out of a fridge. We sat in awe as we could only imagine that to be quite the superhuman feat. Anyway, that piece of charred protein is actually fresh barramundi that has been marinated with cumin and yoghurt. Perched upon a bed of garlic salmoriglio, it is a smoky explosion of earthy herbaceous spice and luscious textures.
Another mainstay is the fresh Australian rock lobster. This time, the tasty crustacean tangoes with smoked Naga Morich chillies – a native of Northeast India. Notoriously known to belong in the same family as the Bhut Jolokia (ghost chilli), expect nothing short of lingering heat and spice to complement the meaty garlicky lobster.
Other worthy mentions are the hand-pulled beef kerala pepper rice (pictured above) and the parmesan kulchette. The former is a showcase of slow-cooked beef brisket tossed in Irrachi masala, wrapped in banana leaf with Kerala pepper rice. Grilled over a wood fire, served with fresh pomegranate yoghurt. While the latter is a refreshed take on the popular Kulcha served with spice-tempered fenugreek and cubed russet potatoes to deliver an indulgent savoury treat.
As every great meal comes along with spiffy libations, Revolver isn't one to shy away from shaking up a storm behind the bar despite its extensive wine offerings. The standout tipple is definitely Revolver’s take on an El Diablo which combines mezcal, citrus, and a house-made passionfruit hell fire reduction. The result? A refreshingly bold mishmash of smoke, sweet tropical fruits and lingering pepper spice to finish.
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