This tiny slice of Kyoto is only revealed to those who possess a special QR code which activates a sliding door of a discreet facade – that's in the middle of Orchard. But you won’t have to sell your soul to join this secret society, all you have to do is make a booking since this reservation-only joint is all for privacy and tranquillity. That said, it does come with thoughtful design elements that apply from start to finish for a rather seamless dining experience.
As you enter, there is vibrant Gucci wallpaper on the walls of the plush pink-hued lounge and Gucci homeware furnishings to welcome your presence. Perhaps Alessandro Michele never left the room. On the sides of the walkway, the wilful display of sparkling radiant Kagami crystalware – used by the Japanese royals – teases the idea of pairing your meal with some fine sake.
In the 12-seater restaurant, warm neutral tones flood the space with walnut wood and fluted granite accents. That is where Chef Kenta Yamauchi – formerly of Michelin-starred Gion Fukushi in Kyoto – set the stage for a deft showcase of Kyoto-style Japanese cuisine tastefully balanced with contemporary touches. Deemed as a classically-trained chef under the wings of Master Chef Fukushi Takuyoshi at the esteemed Tankuma Kitamise in Kyoto, Yamauchi’s foundation is unshakable.
Together with sushi specialist Hirohito Tanaka – formerly of Michelin-starred Sushi Ginza Onodera in New York – things are kept simple and elegant without excessive theatrics. Yamauchi also takes every effort to source the finest – and more often than not, rare – ingredients flown in exclusively from Japan and nowhere else. Some of these include a Shiro miso from a heritage Kyoto maker that is notoriously picky about supplying to only a handful of select restaurants in Japan.
Our experience of the Tsuki dinner menu ($380) saw two clear standouts. First, is the exquisite cold starter of in-season Kegani (pictured above). Meticulously picked under blue light to rid any fine shells, the sweet crustacean is then assembled back into its shell. Laced with a faint umami dashi jelly and a generous dollop of oscietra caviar, it pairs perfectly with a glass of the finely effervescent Jacques Picard Brut. What takes half an hour of skilful preparation is devoured in less than three minutes.
For the next highlight, most will lean towards the thinly sliced shabu-shabu of A5 Wagyu sirloin (pictured above) and by all means, it can and should. But for us, the unctuous dish sits in a league above the rest simply because of the clever use of Shiro miso, which goes into a long boil with premium Hokkaido kombu (kelp) and katsuobushi (bonito flakes). The result is a broth so intensely flavoured yet lingers on your palate ever so subtly. Accompanied with a tender gem of shiitake and fresh black truffles, every spoonful is a comforting amalgamation of rich silky textures and umami-ladened earthy funk.
In between the courses, you will find varying expressions of wild-caught seasonal fish; lightly smoked anago (sea eel) sashimi uplifted with a plum sauce that stood out amongst the tai and chutoro; handroll of creamy uni and maguro with the vibrant crunch of pickled radish kissed with salt flakes over a bed of red vinegar shari; the classic steamed awabi with liver sauce twisted with a sharp layer of 30-month aged Parmigiano Reggiano; tempura of Hokkaido hotate and a sweet deep sea green-eye fish paired with lime and salt – Kyoto-style.
While the price increase phenomenon of Japanese omakase restaurants saw astronomical figures of over $500 for a course, Hazuki is one that isn't heading in that direction. Instead, we thought the courses were value-for-money and definitely won't leave one feeling as if they've been taken for a ride. Lunch starts with the slightly more affordable Kumo course going at $180, ascending to the Kaze ($250) and Ame ($320) courses. Dinner would see the Hare ($280) and, of course, the show-hand menu of Tsuki ($380).
For ones who seek privacy, there's no harm checking in the sleek private dining suite that comfortably seats six with a live station where the chefs execute finishing touches before your eyes.
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