One more hurrah for the rising trend of new-age hawkers going back to traditional methods. Over at the Berseh Food Centre, Nick Soon painstakingly kneads and pinches one kueh at a time (hence the name of the stall), the good, old-fashioned way. There are just four items on his menu of traditional steamed pastries: soon kueh ($1), ku chye kueh ($1.20), png kueh ($1) and orh ku kueh ($1).
We’re rather fond of the ku chye kueh for its silky, translucent skin and the wisp of smokiness from its filling of chives and shredded omelette. The less common orh ku kueh – mung bean paste encased in a black sesame-flecked glutinous rice flour pocket – with its savoury notes is a welcome change from the sweet ang ku kuehs.
The kuehs sell out quickly, so be sure to head down early.
One Kueh at a Time is at Berseh Food Centre.