Perhaps you’ve heard of the orang laut – Malay for “sea people.” These coastal nomads roamed the shores of Singapore, Malaysia, and Indonesia in the 1800s, living off the sea and connecting with ingredients, people, and cultures across borders. It’s this rich maritime heritage that Laut celebrates in its dishes and drinks.
Making the move from Stanley Street to a more intimate space on the third floor of Fotune Centre, Laut now seats about 10 diners per dinner session. The tasting menu experience kicks off at 7pm and lasts till about 9pm. After that, it serves an a la carte selection of snacks and cocktails for people looking to swing by for some late-night bites.
There's a one-drink minimum policy at Laut where you can opt for a cocktail from the main menu or the $38 pairing option to go with the $88 tasting menu. The pairing option comprises two specially selected bevs – a Vietnamese rice sake fermented with pineapple and chilli and a bilimbi starfruit vermouth with pomelo vodka.
The drink menu highlights regional ingredients like the soursop ($23), a slightly fizzy and refreshing concoction of juniper, soursop oolong kombucha and apple mint. We also liked the lengkuas ($23) a ginger-forward drink that packs a spicy punch balanced with a sweet and sour calamansi granita.
For food, Laut’s loyal fans will be thrilled to see some favourites return alongside exciting new creations. The feast begins with a plump oyster dressed in som tum, a tangy, full-flavoured bite to whet the appetite. Here, Laut’s focus on indigenous herbs shines through in details like the borage flower, which unexpectedly delivers a subtle egg-like flavour.
Other dishes we love include blue flower crab rojak packed with jicama and juicy bursts of pomelo; the otak, fresh and juicy local seabass covered in a fragrant rempah served with tangy archar; and the creamy, umami-packed prawn rajah, an unexpected combination of petai and century cooked in simmered rice to create the most delicious porridge you’ll ever have. The portions are generous and the flavours are bold – all courtesy of chef Lim Hoe Gern, who is now a partner in the business alongside OG founders Leon Tan and Frank Shen, both industry heavyweights.
Though Laut’s space might have downsized, its offerings have definitely upsized and grown in finesse. The cosy spot feels like an experimental playground for its talented team, free from the constraints of high-volume dining. We can't wait to see what else is to come.