When autumn comes, you may find yourself going for long solitary strolls—with headphones in your ears and your every step enjoying the satisfying crunch of brown, fallen leaves. This night walk to the Seoul Fortress Wall and beyond isn’t that. It isn’t meant to be appreciated on your own. It’s one where I remember the spots not by their official names or history; but by the people I went there with. It’s, “a walk for the people I like best,” as I once said on a date. The prelude to the walk itself starts at Exit 2 of Hyehwa Station, right next to Marrioner Park where often aspiring actors from Sungkwunkwan University are trying to memorize their lines and then climbing up the stairs of Naksan Park in a huff and puff reminiscent of Paris’ Montmartre. Pay special attention to Jazz Story at the foot of the entrance to the park where vinyl records are matched with cheap beers and sepia-toned lighting.
At the top, you’ll arrive at the Seoul Fortress Wall. Built in 1396 during the Joseon Dynasty to protect the city from invaders, the 18.6 km wall outlines Bugaksan, Naksan, Namsan and Inwangsan—with Naksan being my personal favorite. After you finish your ascent, reward yourself with a short rest before continuing. To the left of the last stop of the green Jongno 03 bus, on one of the highest points of the wall, there’s a dark corner of the fortress wall shrouded by trees, which I often refer to as,
“Seoul’s best first-kiss location.” Most beautiful just as the sun sets, the ai
