Yeosu Odongdo

Even the word “Jangeotang" (eel stew), recalls something greasy, fishy and pungent. But you shouldn’t judge before you eat. The taste of jangeotang is so memorable that it might be said that you can divide your life into two parts—before your first bowl of jangeotang, and after. There’s no fishy taste, only layers of flavor, both spicy and refreshing. The soup is weighty and hearty. In the stew you taste the bone, the flesh and the spirit of the jangeo (eel), a food widely acknowledged to be good for health and vigor, and wonder what it is they added and how they cooked it for a taste like that. This is one of those restaurants you hestitate to share lest it become too crowded. It’s not just the jangeotang. The place is also famous for its delicious seodae hoe (flatfish sashimi). The seodae is a type of fish only found off the shores of Yeosu and the South Sea. It’s enjoyed sweet and sour and refreshing, with fresh vegetables, vinegar of fermented makgeolli (rice ale), and red pepper paste. Neither jangeotang nor seodae hoe are foods that are easy to find in Seoul—all the more reason that Yeosu Odongdo is such a treasure. The jolly and openhearted proprietor makes the trip to Yeosu each week to transport the ingredients himself; it’s a thrifty and honest business they run. And to anyone who asks, the owner is only too willing to open up about ingredients and foods.