Gino’s NY Pizza

Ask people what the most important part of a pizza is, and more often than not, you’re likely to hear: “The crust.” A good crust has the ability to elevate a mediocre pizza, and along with the sauce, is the individual stamp of a pizza place. Long-time NYC resident Eugene Kim understands this well. He obsesses over it. And with partner, Yu Seong “David” Kim, the two opened Gino’s NY Pizza earlier this month in Itaewon. Recognizing a gap for authentic New York-style pizza in the already saturated pizza market, Eugene spent time in NYC learning the ins and outs of crusts and sauces (where he was affectionately known as “Fat Gino”—hence, the name) with the goal of creating a pizzeria that brings a “true” New York icon to Seoul. Each morning begins with prepping and making the dough for the crust. The dough is then left to ferment for 24 to 72 hours, resulting in a crust with a good amount of “oven spring,” which refers to its airiness. Crusts at Gino's are light and crispy, not dense and crunchy as you're apt to find at most other places. Great care has been taken to source highquality ingredients for the sauce and toppings. Most are imported from the U.S., the fresh mozzarella comes from Italy and the Italian sausage is made locally especially for Gino’s. All of this painstaking attention to detail results in a pizza that’s well balanced, both in texture and flavor. Personal favorites thus far include the NY Supreme and Brooklyn’s Best (a Gino’s signature pizza topped with Italian sausage, red onions, fresh basil, grated parmesan and extra virgin olive oil). Gino’s offers a good selection of classic pies for those opting for combinations of more or less meat and/or vegetables. The most interesting pizza is probably Nellie’s Pie, which is great if you like the combination of sweet, salty, tart and peppery. If you’re having trouble deciding, don’t worry; just order the half and half. Eugene and Yu-seong, who between the two of them have over 17 years of experience in the service industry, make a formidable team that’s ready to make a splash in the pizza scene, and their “customer first” philosophy is evident in the way they run their business. To hear Eugene tell it: “I want it to taste like New York. I want it to feel like home.” I’d say he’s succeeded. James Yu