Ma’Ono is a surprising pick for best fried chicken for two reasons: First of all, it’s located in Seattle, a city more prized for its pristine seafood, Rainier cherries and dark java than it is for soul food; and second, the bird is nestled in among a Hawaiian-inspired menu that features Spam musubi and tuna poke. But when something works, it works, and chef Mark Fuller’s buttermilk-soaked, twice-fried bird is a thing of beauty, its crackly crust heavily seasoned with a proprietary blend of “umami” spices. Call in advance to reserve the über-popular fowl, available whole or half and served on a platter with spicy cabbage kimchi, nori-sprinkled rice and chili sauce.
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