Hamel Family Wines Sonoma
Photograph: Jimmy Hayes
Photograph: Jimmy Hayes

These are Sonoma County’s best wineries

Check out these calm spots that rival Napa’s vineyards with gorgeous views and vibrant wines

Erika Mailman
Written by: Sarah Medina
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The city of Sonoma sits about an hour north of San Francisco and is, along with neighboring Napa, the heart of a vibrant winemaking region. Here, the terroir is ideal for grape growing, with sunny, warm (but rarely hot), dry summers that cool off in the evening with ocean breezes and fog drifting into the valleys. That oceanic fog ensures temperature swings of 40 degrees or more, according to Sonoma County Tourism, which preserves acidity and complexity in the grapes. There are 19 different AVAs (American Viticultural Areas) in Sonoma County, and six out of 190 varietals take the forefront: chardonnay, pinot noir, cabernet sauvignon, sauvignon blanc, zinfandel and merlot. Throughout the county, you’ll find 425 wineries, from small mom and pop operations to internationally known, award winning makers.

Here we’ll mostly focus on wineries right in Sonoma itself—the city rather than the county—an adorable burg with a population of 11,000 with a thriving walkable downtown built up around its historic, grassy Sonoma Plaza. (And then because we are full of love, we’ll throw in a few nearby wineries as well: This region is full of them! You’ll love exploring). And don’t forget to book a room in a nearby hotel—we like this one—so you can linger before driving back to the city. An app rolled out last year that makes all your planning easy.

RECOMMENDED: 🍷 The best wineries in Napa

Best wineries in Sonoma

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Donum Estate has two primary focuses: aged pinot and contemporary art. Wine tastings here are thoughtful, private affairs that include samples of pinot noir during a stroll around the 200-acre estate. The dichotomy between the natural surroundings—150-year-old olive trees, vineyards and an organic farm—and museum-worthy sculptures is stunning. Curated and owned by Allan and Mei Warburg, the collection features 60 large-scale works, many of which are open air, site specific installations by artists including Ai Weiwei, Yayoi Kusama, Louise Bourgeois, Keith Haring and Tracey Emin. Appointment only.

2. Emeritus Vineyards (Sebastopol)

When Brice Cutrer Jones learned of a piece of land opening up for sale in the Russian River Valley named Hallberg Ranch, he knew what a unique opportunity it was. This was back in 1999, and Jones had already built a successful winery, Sonoma-Cutrer Vineyards. He decided to transform the land from a farm to a winery focused on pinot noir. Over the years, he's done just that, with Emeritus producing award-winning pinot noir varietals. Uniquely, all of the wine is dry-farmed using deep roots that enhance their complexity. Now in 2024, the winery is run by his daughter, Mari Jones, and is celebrating its 25th year. The tasting room is elevated yet comfortable, with various seating options, as well as an outdoor terrace overlooking the vineyards. Reservations recommended for estate tastings and required for estate tour and Art of Pinot Noir experiences.

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Gundlach Bundschu is California’s oldest family-owned winery, established in 1858 by two Bavarian and German immigrants whose surnames carry forward in the winery's name. With 165 years of winemaking and a sixth-generation vintner at the helm, Gun Bun is a lively and idyllic place to taste; the 320-acre property is shaded by towering olive trees and bordered by a scenic pond. With an outdoor amphitheater and redwood barn, concerts are occasionally held here although the popular Huichica festival has been placed on hiatus. Don’t miss the pinot noir and cabernet sauvignon, as well as a refreshing gewürztraminer. Appointment only.

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This certified biodynamic family-owned winery focuses on Bordeaux-style wines. Grapes are grown in high-elevation micro terroirs with volcanic soil on the steep western slopes of the Mayacamas mountains. Hamel Family Wines has moved away from irrigation and has been completely dry farming since 2018 in a quest for sustainable practices. A visit includes a tour of the winery and cave with seated tastings of current and library releases. Appointment only.

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This scenic, historic winery was originally founded in 1953 by ambassador James D. Zellerbach, who returned to the U.S. inspired after a sojourn in Burgundy, and is known for standout pinot noir, cabernet sauvignon and chardonnay. Perched at the southern tip of the Mayacamas range, the vineyard (owned by the de Brye family since 1975) offers bird’s-eye views of Sonoma Valley and the San Pablo Bay. Though the facilities date back to 1950s, the small-batch wines are produced using state-of-the-art technology. Appointment only

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Established by a family with roots both in Sonoma and in Tuscany, Viansa offers Italian varietals and panoramic views of the valley. The tasting room is Tuscan inspired and there’s even an Italian marketplace to have a little bit of Italy in California. You can make a reservation for a guided tasting or feel free to be a walk-in to taste at the bar. Afterward, buy a bottle and selections from the deli for a picnic on the lawn (Adirondack chairs and picnic tables are non-reservation, but you may not bring in outside food/beverage). Check out the livestream camera feed to start pining for your trip.

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Founded in 1857, Buena Vista is California’s first premium winery—founded by a Hungarian count who eventually died in a crocodile accident—and as you walk onto its grounds you’ll see a series of historic markers explaining the winery’s story. For old-school enjoyment, there’s even a tall-walled hedge maze. A stuffed crocodile hanging from the ceiling in the mansion-esque tasting room recalls the count’s untimely passing in the jungles of Nicaragua. The wines are fantastic; this writer especially enjoyed the Sheriff of Buena Vista, a blend of cabernet, merlot, petite sirah, syrah and grenache, which comes in a bottle with a golden sheriff’s badge affixed (among other colorful stories, you’ll learn from your pourer that the count was San Diego’s first sheriff).

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The sensational tasting house for Three Sticks is in a pre-Gold Rush adobe, built in 1842 by Captain Salvador Vallejo, infamous brother of beloved General Mariano Vallejo (the city of Vallejo was named after him: he was once the Commandante of the northern territory of Mexico which includes all of Sonoma). As you enter, the tasting room is filled with the veritable ambience of another age with its furnishings and wallpapers, designed by San Francisco's interior design legend Ken Fulk. In a whimsical twist, Three Sticks uses whiskey bottles for their Casteñada wines, a nod to the fact that archeaology in the interior courtyard unearthed whiskey bottles from the 1800s folks who drank here. This is a family owned pinot and chardonnay venture with six vineyards, with winemaker Ryan Prichard (previously, pinot noir winemaker Bob Cabral) at the steering wheel. Appointment only

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The family history is strong at Seghesio, beginning with the 1895 Italian immigrants, husband and wife, who planted Zinfandel vines here, probably not knowing that five generations and 125 vintages later, visitors would still be drinking that wine. Across 300 sustainably farmed acres, the family and winemaker Andy Robinson have been tending those Zin grapes using Burgundian techniques in the belief that what some call the only truly American grape is a world class variety deserving of old-world care and attention. The Grove is a welcoming picnic spot, and you can reserve the $100 Bocce & Bottles experience for 90 minutes of a bocce ball court plus two picnic tables with a two bottle minimum purchase upon arrival. Walk-ins welcome although groups of six or more may wish to call ahead to ensure availability.

10. Francis Ford Coppola Winery (Geyserville)

Yes, this is a winery by five-time Academy Award-winning director and screenwriter Francis Ford Coppola. Don't let the fact that it's founded by a celebrity deter you, though: the wine is excellent. Plus, it's worth a visit to check out the property alone, which is far more than a winery and more like a full-on resort. You'll find two swimming pools (bring your suit), a collection of movie memorabilia including an original Tucker automobile, four Bocce ball courts, a gift shop, an Italian restaurant called Rustic and best of all: 40 wines produced on site. We love the Sofia Blanc de Blancs, named for also-fabulous-filmmaker daughter Sofia Coppola.

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11. Paradise Ridge Winery (Santa Rosa)

At this family-owned winery with enviable views of the Russian River Valley, you can tour an expansive sculpture grove with large-scale works, including some from Burning Man, by walking a simple footpath. The 155-acre winery suffered during the 2017 wildfires but had rebuilt by 2018, and several art pieces symbolize that resilience. Owned by the Byck family, the winery’s sustainably farmed varietals can be savored in the contemporary tasting room or on private tours. Reservations required, but you may drop in to tour the sculptures for free without one.

12. Coursey Graves (Sonoma)

This French-inspired winery will make you feel like you’ve fallen into a Monet painting, with a curved garden over a pond reflecting a multitude of flowers and native plants. Coursey Graves sits 1,500 feet high atop Bennett Mountain and attracts wildlife from soaring red-tailed hawks to bobcats and coyotes. You can choose from a 60-minute communal tasting with fellow wine lovers or a 90-minute private vista experience that starts with a guided stroll through the grounds and wine cave and includes a charcuterie board. The grapes grown on 13 acres of the 40-acre estate (a former sheep farm) wind up in French varietals including malbec, cabernet franc, viognier and petit verdot. Appointment only.

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