East Ocean Seafood Restaurant

The line begins to form an hour before opening at this bustling Alameda eatery, where gilded dragons snake across the walls. Large families gather around the plants up front and cluster on the sidewalk. Luckily for the waiting throngs, the seating here is plentiful, including tables fit for two to 12. Carts roll by in all directions, and each server is wired with a tiny microphone to relay orders to the kitchen. The menu goes on for several pages, offering favorites like barbecue pork buns, shrimp and leek dumplings, shu mai, salt and pepper tofu, taro, porridge and chicken feet. Cap off your meal with a selection of custard tarts, sesame balls and pillowy pineapple buns.