Even on the sunniest days, it’s cave-like in the Cuckoo, which is lit mainly by string lights behind the bar. You’d think that a cocktail joint that plays lo-fi vintage vinyl would be overrun by Mission hipsters, but it’s far enough off the beaten path to be patronized by an eclectic cast of characters—bartenders included. They’re typically spinning oldies by Dean Martin, Ray Charles and Ella Fitzgerald, though live bands pile into the corner several nights a week (backed by a blaring Hammond organ). Grab a bar stool or a spot on one of the old church pews and order a stiff cocktail, like the signature Salty Cuckoo Bird: Viking Fjord vodka, fennel bitters, grapefruit and Himalayan salt ($6).
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