Al Farabi

This mix of second-hand bookstore and bar, a haven for intellectuals and artists, has been revamped without losing its historical charm. The outdoor tables invite you to sit and enjoy drinks and snacks like roasted jiló with confit tomato (R$16) and carne louca (R$27) on display in the front window. Main dishes include the Picadinho Carioca (R$49) with garlic farofa, rice, poached egg, and baked banana, along with new hits like cheese ravioli with concassé sauce (R$48). Fridays and Saturdays feature shrimp bobó (R$52) and feijoada (R$58). Golden tip: don’t leave without trying the creamy coconut batida (R$15), served in a big cup.