Reykjavik may be small, but she is mighty – and each of her various neighbourhoods tell a different story. Over in Reykjavik’s quiet, sleepy port end (which feels a bit like reaching the end of the earth, in a good way), is where you’ll find the magnificent Reykjavik Edition, a ridiculously sleek, all-black, towering building at the harbour’s edge. It’s a beauty, with 253 rooms, a bar, restaurant and a spa, and it sits in stark contrast to the many of the rest of the city’s hotels, largely clustered in Reykjavik’s more raucous centre.
This hotel is pretty special – the first five-star hotel to exist here – and it offers beautifully still, sweeping views across the port, dotted with little red buildings. And listen, you’re in Iceland, so why the hell would they not have a hyper-realistic aurora borealis graphic as the backdrop to the lobby bar? Why would a cocktail here be made from anything other than Icelandic gin, banana, mango and dill? Not overly traditional, from its rooms to its lobby the Edition feels fresh, modern and cutting-edge, but with a distinctly Icelandic feel - whichever way they face, every room has a bed that looks out over an enormous window, and each is covered with a multicoloured wool throw by a local designer.
As well as the lobby bar, there’s a rooftop bar, the Roof, on the seventh floor, serving up more crafty cocktails, beers and absolutely perfect snacks (namely, fried chicken and a charcuterie board). This is the Edition’s must-visit feature, decked out with a terrace for rare warm weather and a cosy indoor bar – and sweeping views out over Reykjavik's surrounding mountains. A breakfast buffet is downstairs at Tides Cafe, decked out with pastries, chia pudding, cooked breakfast bits and more, or there’s an upscale breakfast at Tides Restaurant, with a langoustine eggs benedict and a smoked salmon omelette with caviar – it’s in-your-face luxurious, but when in Rome, eh? Dinner there is equally as extravagant, and local fish is star of the show; tuck into lobster ravioli, north Icelandic lamb fillet, and Westfjords cod, or opt for the four-course tasting menu and wine pairings. On the very ground floor is the Edition’s spa, with a plunge pool, steam room and sauna. To see a whole other side of Reykjavik, the Edition is your best bet.
Neighbourhood
I’m going to be honest: you’re in Reykjavik, so nothing is far away. But if the weather is mental (and trust me, it might be), you can stay in this little sanctuary of town for a whole day and evening, possibly leaving the hotel only once or twice, and likely have the time of your life. This harbour is where you’ll find soup served in a bread bowl, whale watching tours to book onto, the iconic Ingólfsgarður Lighthouse and other harbour-y activities. There’s also Reykjavik’s main high-street shopping complex, the Hafnartorg Gallery, with a genuinely great food hall with pizza, tacos, cocktails and more.
Nearby
Le Kock: The best burger in Reykjavik, apparently, and certainly one of the best I’ve ever tried. Great wings, too, but no fries. Don’t be dismayed: the crunchy little roast potatoes with aioli and pickled chillis will scratch the itch. Check out their sister spot, Deig, for insanely good bagels, donuts and sticky cinnamon buns.
Reykjavik Art Museum Hafnarhús: A really brilliant modern art gallery set in an old harbour warehouse, showing works by local and international artists.
Harpa Concert Hall and Conference Centre: A strikingly beautiful modern glass building that’s worth a visit whether you’re an opera guy or not. Take photos outside it, look around the inside of it, or book onto one of its events (there’s jazz on Sundays).
Time Out tip
Reykjavik is probably one of the only places on earth where hotel bars are reasonably priced in comparison to the rest of the city. Head to the Edition’s Roof bar between 6pm and 8pm for £10 cocktails and £6 wine and beer – cheaper than most bars in the area.