1. Gruta
‘When I was little, every weekend I would go with my father to the São Pedro Market in Niterói to buy fish and shellfish that would then be cooked on the grill,’ recalls Rafaela Louzada, the chef of Gruta in Rua de Santa Catarina, where she works mainly with what she finds at the Matosinhos fish market. Highlights include lobster bisque with lemongrass, octopus carpaccio, courgette salad with lemon, mint, pine nuts and parmesan, fish moqueca and rice. Oh, and make sure you try the Lobster Roll, a homemade brioche stuffed with blue lobster from the coast, kimchi mayonnaise and crunchy chips.