It’s Mediterranean style plus Welsh charm – here are the best things to do
Most of us would love to spend our summer dreamily wandering around a pretty coastal village somewhere in Italy, but because of a lack of funds, time or leftover annual leave, it’s not always so simple to organise.
We can rejoice then that there’s a little chunk of Italy tucked away on an estuary in North Wales – the tiny folly village of Portmeirion. Celebrated architect Sir Clough Williams-Ellis dreamt up this marvellous marriage of Italian style and Welsh charm back in 1925, but it took many years to come together. Now, Portmeirion is one of the most beautiful places you can visit in the UK, so from fishing village tours to perfect spots for a pint, check out our list of the best things to do.
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When in Portmeirion, do as you would in any other Mediterranean fishing village dreamt up by a beloved architect. Amble! Entry to Portmeirion includes a 20-minute guided walk along the cobbles. The guided tour is an excellent way to get your bearings before diving in deeper on your own feet, peeking around corners to find quirky details in every nook and cranny.
Wander along the stunning coastal path at the edge of the village and soak up the scenery of the Dwyryd Estuary before circling back through a subtropical forest dubbed The Gwyllt. Don’t miss the elegant Japanese Garden, with a pagoda and lily pad-carpeted lake. Portmeirion really is different…
Grab a hearty hot roast bap from Caffi No 6, or enjoy a dollop of homemade gelato – the bara brith flavour is dangerously good – at Caffi’r Angel. For a sit-down affair, head to Hotel Portmeirion and its art deco restaurant. Try the roast skate or the duck breast, or splash out on its nine-course tasting menu.
Portmeirion isn’t a place where adrenaline thrives, but it does find itself a stone’s throw away from some classic North Wales excitement. For a quirky day out, check out Snowdonia’s mining history at Llechwedd Slate Caverns, a fascinating site buried deep under the mountains, where brave explorers go 500ft underground on the steepest cable railway in Britain.
Within Portmeirion itself, the aforementioned Caffi No 6 or Hotel Portmeirion are the best places for a crisp ale, but there are plenty of options in nearby towns and villages. Beddgelert is right around the corner, and it just so happens to be bursting with olde-worlde charm. The Saracens Head is a good old-fashioned pub and hotel with a darling location and no shortage of beers, wines and spirits. Excellent pork scratchings, if you’re into that sort of thing.
When it comes to Portmeirion itself, the highlight of the trip will be the gorgeous views and conveyer belt of photographic opportunities. The village’s proximity to Snowdonia almost makes scaling the mountain an absolute must. Stand at 3,560ft and be blown away by the landscape of craggy peaks and deep valleys dotted with lakes. On a clear day, views stretch as far as Ireland. Don’t fancy the hike? Take the heritage Snowdon Mountain Railway. We won’t judge.
One shouldn’t expect a plethora of accommodation options in a fairytale village devised in a dream, but Portmeirion has a couple that more than make up the numbers. The village has two luxury four-star hotels that live up to that billing. Hotel Portmeirion ticks a lot of boxes, but there’s something about waking up in a Victorian-style castellated mansion that appeals, making Castell Deudraeth the optimal accommodation option in Portmeirion. The rooms are beautiful, the beds are magnificent, the Victorian garden is a delight.
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