12 hours in Philadelphia: the best non-touristy things to do

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It's time to hit the streets, but first: coffee. Head to the Bok Building, a former technical high school turned eight-floor indie hub with a rooftop restaurant and bar in South Philly; here you'll find Two Persons, a quaint blue-green tiled cafe on the ground floor where creatives co-work at communal tables and building vendors and merchants stop in before opening their shops.

Grab a cortado, then walk just past the seating area to Machine Shop. Take a seat and linger over stunning French boulangerie-inspired treats, which include a chocolate hazelnut twice baked croissant and jammy egg tart with green shatta and feta that’s earned them Food & Wine's “Best New Chefs,” Eater’s “Best New Restaurants,” and James Beard “Outstanding Pastry Chef or Baker.”

Walk north a few blocks to 10th and Watkins St for a peek at Zagar Mosaic Warehouse, the fascinating workshop of local legend, Isaiah Zagar, the visionary behind Philadelphia’s Magic Gardens. Tourists flock to the garden itself, which is further up on South St, but you can admire the artist’s famous tile works at his studio, which is now open for public tours, too. Let your eyes wander over every tiled nook and cranny.

Mozy on over the corner to Tasker St and Passyunk Ave for a pit stop at The Singing Fountain. This tiny park is a central piece of the East Passyunk neighborhood, a hub for charming rowhomes, boutique retail shops, and corner bars. Locals gather here to read, catch up with friends, and play chess. Take a bench seat and admire the passersby (and dozens of dogs) or grab a book from their Little Free Library outpost.

It's time for lunch, so follow Passyunk Avenue northeast to 8th and Carpenter Streets for sandwiches at Paffuto, a new eatery in the Italian Market. The owners are three friends who bring a modern take to their favorite Italian-American childhood treats like panzerotti’s (fried turnovers stuffed with delicious items like pepperoni), chicken cutlet hoagies, and paninis. The lunch menu rotates with seasonal and weekend specials which means ordering a minestra soup made with parmesan broth, creamy cannellini beans, and herby meatballs hit home on a cold, rainy day.

After lunch, it's time to soak in some of the public art that gives Philadelphia its “Mural Capital of the World" nickname. Walk to nearby Catherine St to see the walls of Fleisher Art Memorial and Da Vinci Art Alliance, next to Palumbo Park, that are covered in work by community artists including art students of both galleries.

Admire David Guinn’s large-scale "Autumn" mural,  a picturesque fall scene that covers two walls on opposite sides of the park with yellow, green, and brown. Peep the ceramic tiles framing Fleisher’s entrance and mixed-media art installations that line the outdoor walls of DVAA.

Once you’ve had your fill of art inspiration, hop on the northbound SEPTA Broad Street Line (Orange Line) at Broad and Ellsworth Streets and get off two stops later at Walnut-Locust Street to see even more murals. 

Time Out tip: No need to carry cash or tokens to use Philly's transit system. You can now tap your smartphone to pay for buses and trains.

Walk east on Walnut St towards Washington Square at 7th St. The park, which has memorials honoring General George Washington and the American Revolution and is just mere steps away from Independence National Historical Park, is frequented by families and their furry friends. 

The park is also surrounded by stately buildings that are considered some of the finest examples of urban architecture. Two buildings will be of extra interest to bilbliophiles: The Curtis Building, founded by the publisher Cyrus Curtis in 1891, and The Athenaeum of Philadelphia, a historic library that houses a vast collection of architectural text archives of the region.

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Cross the cobblestone streets and head east to Philly's historic Old City. Speed past slow walking tourists entering Elfreth’s Alley and head to the boutiques lining Second and Third Streets to shop for antiques and homegoods. I love to shop for used books at The Book Trader, and stock up on stationery and other bespoke paper goods at Omoi Zakka Shop and Artist & Craftsman Supply. Browse for midcentury modern barware at More Than Old, then treat yourself to a mini wardrobe makeover at Vagabond or Rennes.

You’ve worked up an appetite and deserve a sit-down meal. Stop into Forsythia, one of the most Instagrammable places in Philly. Grab a cocktail at the cozy bar and dine on seasonal and sophisticated French fare at chef and proprietor Christopher Kearse's vibey restaurant. Some of my recent favorite dishes include foie gras-stuffed petit chicken, sweet potato soup with crab and coconut, and duck breast à L'Orange.

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You may be full and tired after dinner, but you'll need to find a second wind because we're not quite done exploring Philly. Hop on the El (the elevated SEPTA) train at 2nd and Market Street and head northeast to North Bowl in Northern Liberties. This retro-chic bowling alley becomes 21+ after 8pm and serves cocktails, local beers, and global pub grub like halloumi fries, kung pao fried cauliflower, patatas bravas-style tots, and lamb sliders. Reserve one of the 17 lanes for less than $20; then, it's time to rent and lace up your bowling shoes and play a few competitive games.

Time Out tip: North Bowl is cash only.

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Time for a night cap! Pop into El Bar in Fishtown, a neighborhood gem under the train tracks, to experience a Philly rite of passage—a few rounds of cheap beers, or the famous Citywide Special shot-beer combo.

This corner dive is an IYKYK kind of spot that's covered in years-old stickers, tchotchkes, and string lights. End the night in true Philly fashion by playing pool or vintage arcade games. If the weather’s a beaut, bask in all of Philadelphia’s glory in the back patio. If you're still hungry, why not snag a $2 hotdog, as well?

Time Out: The El Bar is cash-only, but there's an ATM onsite.