With a reputation that reaches Paris and a star in the famed tire guide, Les Apothicaires was the restaurant we were most excited to try in Lyon. We were not disappointed. In a space designed by Bérengère Mey (cosy benches, robin egg blue, and light wooden furniture), Tabata and Ludovic Mey, partners in the kitchen as in life, boast an impressive CV (from Bocuse to René Redzepi) and orchestrate an equally impressive culinary concerto. This evening, on a well-priced menu (€59) in eight acts, these two lovebirds with the Midas touch have transformed each dish into pure gold. Highlights: delicate, crunchy peas with green strawberries and verbena kombucha; a beautiful bass tartare, umeboshi plums, and sage that pops in your mouth; ultra-gourmet buttered zucchini, fermented berries, and herbaceous hollandaise; and crispy, melt-in-your-mouth sweetbreads, grilled cucumber, nasturtium, and green pepper. To wash it all down, a fine selection of wines that tend towards biodynamic and regional, served by the gregarious, laid-back team. Voilà, the rejuvenated gastronomy of Lyon!
Les Apothicaires - 23 Rue de Sèze, Lyon 69006. Mon-Fri noon-2pm and 7:30pm-9:30pm.