Udon Jubey

Famished Nipponophiles have been flocking to the Saint-Anne quarter for some time now, drawn in by its range of Japanese restaurants: Higuma for gyozas, Hokkaido for ramen, Chez Miki for bento boxes... But while noodles, that slurpable staple of East Asian cuisine, have never been the area's forte, a new udon joint is set on changing that. The formula at Udon Jubey is simple: pick a flavour of broth – beef curry, prawn tempura, pork and soya – then choose to take it hot or cold. The noodles are served either inside the broth or separately, ready for dipping. Once it's all on the table, crack out the chopsticks, get ready to make a mess – and don't be afraid to slurp. Those looking for a more civilised affair can opt for one of the many gyudons (rice bowls topped with strips of meat and veg) or tempura dishes.

Service is brisk and pleasant, and the whole experience tends slightly toward the fast-foodish: you'll be in and out of the place before you can muster an 'arigato gozaimasu'. The arrangement of tables around the counter where chefs toil away is a nice design touch. Factor in reasonable prices (for the area) – count around €15 for a main course – and you have yourself a solid addition to Little Tokyo.