You don’t mess about with the ultra-spicy cooking of the Chinese region of Sichuan, which is known principally for its ability to almost literally put fire in your belly with its punchy combinations of spices and chilli. Which is why Trois Fois Plus de Piment (‘three times more spice’) is one to watch. Don’t be fooled by the calm, friendly atmosphere, all exposed brick walls and wooden stools. The dishes here must be taken seriously.
For a gentle entry on the starters, try the plump, flavourful home made pork dumplings – teamed with a spicy, garlicky, slightly sweet Sichuan sauce, naturally. Next, a bowl of noodles (with or without broth), perhaps the Dan Dan (minced pork, peanuts and coriander), with a customisable chilli level on a scale of 1 to 5. The waitress, perhaps well seasoned in weak Parisian palates, recommended we try a level 2 – quite hardcore enough for us. Aside from the spice, the broth is gorgeously scented, the noodles freshly made and the pork delicious. There’s no dessert menu to calm scorched tastebuds, so – tough life – you’d better make do with a Tsing Tao beer.
TRANSLATION: ELLEN HARDY