Oh how we loved Pirouette, former home to chef Tomy Gousset and his great bistrot fare. From now on however, you’ll have to make your way to Gousset’s new Invalides base Tomy & Co (with a little more money in your pocket) for his top-notch food.
The €25 lunchtime menu (a starter and a meat or fish main): an unmemorable soup of watercress, speck, croutons, courgette and cream cheese, followed by a half-salted cod with black rice and kale — melt-in-the-mouth and beautifully flavoured. But to really get a sense of just how talented this chef is, go for the €45 menu. Choose from five starters, five mains and five desserts, such as the sublime Roman Apicius-style duck with yellow confit beetroot, fennel and grape chutney and piccalilli, or the poetic ‘sphere-surprise’ dessert of matcha green tea with apple and cinnamon ice-cream and apple slices, a successful, well-considered blend of textures and temperatures.
This is fine, gourmet cuisine: Tomy Gousset continues to fly up and away in the 7th arrondissement — let’s hope he picks up a star en route.
TRANSLATION: LEONIE CATER