The Blind Pig

Kristin Frederick started it all with her Camion Qui Fume, but it was only a matter of time before food trucks trundled into place all over Paris, following New York and London in metamorphosing the emblem of the danger-laden late night kebab vendor into something associated with cutting-edge cool. Unlike in London and New York, however, French laws governing street vendors soon kicked in and relegated the majority of trucks to the suburbs. But things are loosening up slowly, and the Blind Pig has managed to secure a spot in a hangar space on a quiet little alleyway in the heart of the Marais.

Also unusually, chefs take turns at the cooking range here, either experienced food truck cooks or chefs taking a break from their regular postings. On the day we visited, the owners of l'Annexe Montmartre were at the stove, turning out hot and cold salads with duck, chicken or bottarga and a selection of Thai, Vietnamese, Malaysian and Japanese sauces. For €15 with a dessert (melon gazpacho) it was a shade expensive, but undeniably good.

Teamed with a soft drink or one of the good selection of natural wines and Demory beers, you take your meal through to the salon area of the hangar, which is also its winning USP. It's done out with a few vintage objets, old copies of 'Who's Who' and piles of VHS tapes forming armchairs, a big swing, cushions and bird cages, the whole surmounted by at immense photo by Theo Gosselin – a hipster paradise, sure, but also a charming, comfortable, convivial space.

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