Roca

Another new hot néo-bistrot, and one worth the hype. The menu is fairly short (four each of starters, mains and desserts) but varies its ingredients and flavours enough to hold your attention. On our visit, we started with a ceviche of pollack with beetroot, black sesame mousse and orange caramel (€12) and a burratta with marinated vegetables and olive puree (€8). Then a topside of veal with salsify, ginger, spinach and a sauce spiced with Vadouvan curry mixture (€19) and the €14 plat du jour of whiting with crispy rice, cream of mushroom and soya, parsley and shiitake mushrooms.

The dishes are sometimes surprising and always full of flavour, the cooking simple, creative and elegant, executed with real charm. We finished with a pumpkin cake with cream cheese, whisky-flavoured caramel and lemon confit (€7), a delicately sweet final note to a memorable and affordable meal.