Restaurant du Lucernaire

Housed in a versatile cultural centre that comprises three theatres and three cinemas, this restaurant-cum-bar is a trendier affair than the bog-standard neighbourhood cafés that surround it. You have a choice between two rooms: a grand old interior space that brings to mind the classic Montparnasse brasseries, and a more casual bar (evening only) that includes outdoor tables.

Once seated, you’re presented with a menu that covers a huge amount of culinary ground on its single page. Oriental brochettes vie with quiche, Italian salads and croque-monsieurs for your attention. With so much choice, some dishes inevitably come off better than others – the sea bream fillet, with its measly portion of vegetables, wasn’t quite the equal of the juicy cheeseburger. Yet all is forgiven amid the tastefully muted décor and artistic vibe. Now that the great Montparnasse establishments – La Coupole, Le Select - have swapped their Fitzgeralds and Hemingways for tourists and fashionistas (not to mention bloated prices), it’s comforting to know that one venue in the area is still drawing in an authentically artsy crowd.