My Food (CLOSED)

The clutter of big game figurines, tribal wall hangings and piles of biltong on the bar make South African restaurant My Food an unusual escape from the drab Montreuil pavements outside. Genial, bearded, barbecue-savvy owner Kobus Botha serves up huge plates of expertly grilled meat, homemade chips and traditional recipes. Start off with an apéro accompanied by bowls of biltong and droëwors (a sausage snack flavoured with coriander). Then move on to the bobotie (oven-baked spiced minced beef with turmeric and bay leaves, served with raisin-studded rice, banana, lemon and vegetables), vetkoek (open sandwiches with pulled pork, beef or vegetables), an enormous burger or a plate of barbecue, cooked to order. While principally South Africa, the menu draws on a mishmash of other influences – you'll find touches of Portuguese, Mozambican or even British cooking.

The daily set menu at €12 is a serious proposition; on our visit, a bobotie with a side of barbecued salmon and chicken, served with chips, salad and cooked veg. Overall, the good, homely cooking, served by sweet, attentive staff and overseen by the charismatic chef make this a genuine find. On Saturdays, the brunch menu looks pretty weighty, but if you don't happen to live nearby, bear in mind that Chef Botha and his enormous mobile barbecue take up residence on the roof of the Cité de la Mode et du Design or on the banks of the Canal de l'Ourcq every Sunday. Check their Facebook page for updates.