Muxu

Basque restaurant Muxu’s soigné décor is all dim lighting, dark walls and rococo lamps, placing it somewhere between hip drinking den and gourmet brasserie. Opened in September 2013, Muxu – the name means ‘kiss’ in the Basque language – offers three options at starter, main and dessert – a short menu, but full of surprises. Basque Tomme goat’s cheese comes with a small dish of fennel drenched in heather honey (€12). The Muxu burger is thick with Ossau-Iraty cheese, Cévennes onions and spicy Espelette pepper sauce (€17.50). A creamy risotto is threaded through with fine strips of chorizo, orange segments and fresh lovage. This is high quality cooking that recalls the south-western region in pan-fried prawns, Iberian black pudding and plates of sobrasada ­– charcuterie seasoned with paprika.

Save room for the sweet course ­– brioche pain perdu, whipped cream with chestnuts and acidulated redcurrants or tiramisu with Reims biscuits, absinthe-flavoured mousse and Guayaquil chocolate sauce. One thing is sure: chef Antonin Girard knows what he’s doing. As much as we enjoyed the food, though, we could wish for a slightly warmer atmosphere, and a little more flexibility on the wine list prices.