MG Road (CLOSED)

A new crop of restaurants seems to spring up every season around the Rue Saint-Martin, to the point where one could become blasé. But number 205, on the corner of the street, manages to hold the gaze with its dramatic marbled exterior. It’s a modern, upmarket take on cafés run by Persian immigrants in Bombay (Mumbai) in the 1930s (they were known as ‘Irani’) – bright colours, huge mirrors and sober floor tiles hint at this aesthetic heritage, though not as much as the delicious smells wafting out of the kitchen, which is run by Manoj Sharma, an alumnus of London's famous Cinnamon Club.

Our Old Delhi Style vegetarian platter – crisp panipuri stuffed with chickpeas, yoghurt and tamarind chutney and an excellent Bengali Fish Tikka made with line-caught salmon marinated in mustard, aniseed, ginger and chili – showcased the kitchen’s talent for modern versions of classic dishes. Prices are a little steep (around €20 for a main), but the quality of cooking matches up. The size of the dishes leaves room for sides; rotis, naans, lentils or plates of sautéed vegetables. There’s a small selection of desserts, but also the classic lasso, served in a silver tumbler, if you just want something to clear the palate.