Massawa is a small city on the Red Sea coast of Eritrea, providing a small clue as to the cuisine that’s served at this charming, snug restaurant in the 10th arrondissement. And if that obscure geographical reference doesn’t help reveal the cuisine on offer here, perhaps that red-green-and-blue scarf hung above the counter will.
If you’re unsure what Eritrean cuisine actually consists of, we say opt for the bebeaynetu, an immense platter that allows customers to sample a little bit of pretty much everything. In it, the zigueni (stewed beef with a cabbage salad and cream cheese) is gorgeously succulent, while the dish of split peas is simple but perfectly done. Luckily for inelegant or reluctant cutlery-wielders, here it’s customary to eat the traditional way, scooping up every dish with the large crispy flat breads that come with every main.
TRANSLATION: FLORA HUDSON