After the success of their renowned Paris-based Italian restaurants East Mamma and Ober Mamma, savvy businessmen Tigrane Seydoux and Victor Lugger have chosen Batignolles for their third address. Mamma Primi, located in the restaurant-filled rue des Dames follows the same idea and feel: no reservations, a massive waiting list on arrival, plus a magnificent space with an open kitchen, well-sourced products, and a plethora of Italian waiters. Unfortunately their smooth-talking Casanova shtick is a little too obvious and clumsy.
But onto our ‘primi piatti’. The pasta is all handmade and absolutely scrumptious. We loved the tortelli mantovani (€13): ravioli from the Italian town of Mantua, stuffed with squash, amaretto and gorgonzola, a beautiful combination of flavours. Another favourite was their legendary truffle pasta with mascarpone and mushrooms, potent but not overpowering. Alternatively, try their antipasti - the stracciatella cheese and fig pizetta (mini pizza) is great - or their selection of wood-fired pizzas. And with offerings like the Gran Sasso chardonny (€21), the wine menu wins on quality.
Only one gripe - the ‘Italian countryside’ vibe seems insincere and exaggerated. But with food like this, we’ll forgive them.
TRANSLATION: LEONIE CATER