Mamagoto

This early 2016 opening from Thomas Loustau (the man behind Chez Graff) brings together his former colleague Guillame Cazier for the wine and chef Koji Tsuchiya (an alumnus of L’Astrance) in the kitchen. The dining room is generously proportioned, done out in dark wood and turquoise with a penchant for ’50s-inspired fittings that call to mind Don Draper’s New York apartment. The menu, however, is a determinedly contemporary set of creations drawing inspiration from multiple cuisines, while the wine list shows a strong interest in on-trend natural vintages.

You choose from generous plates of ‘nibbles’ (Cecina charcuterie, perhaps, or luscious charred Padrón peppers), starters and mains, with the option of larger sharing dishes for two. A starter of king prawns and turnips came in a chilled and set savoury custard laced with dashi – both sophisticated and intensely flavoured. Another of octopus with colourful shavings of radish and sorrel leaves was light and bright, the meat tender. Our main dish to share brought a beautifully deboned and perfectly cooked whole pigeon with salsify, spring onions and a powerful hazelnut sauce, the whole artfully arranged around the plate. It’s all precise, intense, showman’s cooking, and there’s a high fashion clientele to match, adding up to a meal that’s guaranteed to impress. Service is competent rather than warm, and the bill can add up quickly – so better for business dinners, hot dates or parents in town than a night out with friends.