What’s the vibe?
Since 1988, the sun’s never really set over Porte des Lilas. We're talking about the faded sun mural above the loud, colourful façade of Relais Tropical – a Caribbean-style shack that’s been holding it down on this corner of Parisian pavement for nearly 40 years. Behind the counter, Victor Louis is cooking up hearty, homemade dishes from French Guiana and Guadeloupe, all with a prime view over the boulevard des Maréchaux.
What should I order?
The menu here is packed with no-nonsense food platters that really hit the spot. We tried an seriously satisfying chicken colombo – thick, rich sauce, spiced to order, served with plain white rice (€7 for the small box – generous enough to knock us out) – eaten standing at the counter, as it should be.
If you’re on the move, grab one of their survival-style bokits – an Antillean fried bread sandwich stuffed with smoked chicken, stewed beef or tuna creole-style. But if you’re ready to go all-in on comfort food, the accras are a must – cod, prawn or aubergine fritters, depending on the day (€4 for six), or a box stuffed full of fried plantains for €5.
What should I drink?
No ti’ punch here, but a selection of cans – we went for a super sweet ginger beer (€2). At a time when street food’s getting more and more gentrified in Paris, it’s a relief to find a place like this – real food, proper portions, and zero fuss, right out in the open. Forget street food – this is boulevard food.
📍 Discover more of the best cheap eats in Paris