Back in 2012, the popular Tuck Shop – opened by a trio of Australian coffee aficionados on the Rue Lucien Sampaix – was one of the first in a steady stream of trendy coffee shops to spring up in the Canal Saint-Martin area. To the dismay of many, the place was closed two years later, before being snapped by a new owner, Eglantine Heyndrickx, who has now brought us Le Poutch. This vegetarian café replicates its predecessor’s snug and welcoming canteen-like feel, but this time it’s done out in a ’50s-style décor of dated wicker-frame mirrors, slate menus and formica-topped chairs. The pleasant brunch menu (€10) features things like a hearty frittata of broccoli, butternut squash and cheddar, served with roast potatoes, sweet potatoes, a creamy sauce of mustard, honey and lemon, and a mixed green salad (yes, that’s just one dish). Both creative and gourmet, everything here is made exclusively with fresh produce and comes in very generous portions, like the unctuous mushroom velouté and the savoury ham and cheddar muffin. As for drinks, the juice of the day (interesting fruity, spicy combinations like apple, beetroot, lemon and ginger) makes for a decent accompaniment with any main.
TRANSLATION: HUW OLIVER
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