Le Chateaubriand

Self-taught Basque chef Iñaki Aizpitarte runs this stylish bistro. Come at dinner to try the cooking at its most adventurous, as a much simpler (albeit cheaper) menu is served at lunch. Dishes have been deconstructed down to their very essence and put back together again. You'll understand if you try starters like chunky steak tartare with a quail's egg, or asparagus with tahini foam and little splinters of sesame-seed brittle. The cooking's not always so cerebral - Aizpitarte's Spanish goat's cheese with stewed apple jam is brilliant. Be sure to book a few days ahead.