Le Brasier (CLOSED)

There's nothing like a really good fondue for putting colour back in your cheeks, be it a potato-based Savoyard version or a meaty bourguignon. Either way, the warm mix of Emmental and Gruyère with a healthy slosh of white wine is always a winner. This little restaurant on the Rue Daguerre makes you feel like you're having après-ski in the mountains, with a menu that's all tartiflettes (bacon and cheese pies), pierrades (stone grills) and raclettes (metal cheese grills) designed to fatten you up for life on the slopes. Nothing here is particularly high end, but it is good and affordable, and a great place to warm up on a winter's day huddled around the wooden tables, each with its own grill. We could have asked for more wine in the fondue, for the charcuterie in the raclette to be cut more finely, for cheese to have more depth of flavour – but if a hearty refuel is all you're after, Brasier does the job. A raclette or tartiflette costs €14.90, €16.90 for a fondue, making it a great value hit of carbs.