Le Bon Saint-Pourçain

The new 2015 opening from the prolific restaurateur David Lanheur (also behind Vivant, Racines and Racines 2), Le Bon Saint-Pourcain more than lives up to its predecessors.

The intimate venue reflects the privileged air of its neighbourhood, with the peaceful charm of the beaux quartiers. The restaurant also feels delightfully secluded in its position on the short Rue Servandoni, its midnight blue facade standing out between the Église Saint Sulpice and the Jardin du Luxembourg. The interior is more classic, with stone walls and white tablecloths and an open corner kitchen where chef Mathieu Techer puts the finishing touches to his exceptional dishes.

Let the bubbly sommelier guide you to a starter glass from the alluring list while you contemplate the chalkboard menu; from the three starters, we loved mounds of fresh crab meat on slices of black radish with a mango coulis (we’ll come another time for the courgettes with goat’s cheese or the terrine de campagne). Then duck leg with fennel and whole asparagus in cream (€27), and a wonderful, crunchy dish of roasted chicken with new vegetables and artichokes (€25). At dessert, the raspberries with Chantilly cream and mascarpone on a lime meringue was a delight. We’ll be back for a special occasion.